The Great Railway Bazaar, by Paul Theroux
The Great Railway Bazaar is an enthralling journey that will make you feel like you're riding the rails alongside Paul Theroux. This captivating travelogue chronicles Theroux's epic four-month train odyssey in 1973, spanning from London to Tokyo and back again. But don't expect your typical tourist's tale of sightseeing and souvenirs. Theroux's keen eye and sharp wit turn his focus to the colorful cast of characters he encounters along the way. From the opulent carriages of the Orient Express to the rickety coaches of the Khyber Pass Local, each train becomes a stage for human drama and cultural insights.
Picture yourself eavesdropping on Theroux's conversation with a group of hippies heading to Afghanistan, or chuckling at his bemused description of a chaotic chicken market in Iran. Feel the sweltering heat of the Indian railway platforms and taste the disappointing curry served on the Frontier Mail.
Theroux doesn't sugarcoat his experiences. He grumbles about bland food, surly conductors, and uncomfortable sleeping arrangements. But it's this raw honesty that makes his writing so refreshing. When he describes the breathtaking beauty of the Cambodian countryside or the eerie emptiness of Siberia, you know you're getting the unvarnished truth.
The legendary trains themselves become characters in their own right. The glamorous Golden Arrow whisks Theroux through Southeast Asia, while the Trans-Siberian Express serves as the grand finale of his journey, a weeklong adventure through the vastness of Russia.
The Great Railway Bazaar isn't just a book about trains or exotic locales. It's a masterclass in observing humanity in all its quirky, frustrating, and fascinating glory. Theroux's sharp observations and witty prose will have you laughing, cringing, and marveling at the diverse tapestry of cultures he encounters.
Thirty Years Later... Ghost Train to the Eastern Star
Thirty years after The Great Railway Bazaar, Theroux embarked on another journey to retrace his steps and assess the transformations that had occurred. In the intervening decades, seismic shifts had reshaped the landscape: the Soviet Union had collapsed, while China and India had experienced explosive growth in both population and economic power. Fortunately for readers, Theroux's profound love for humanity and his scathingly honest writing style remain unchanged. His observations continue to be as entertaining and enlightening as ever, making this follow-up nearly as compelling as the original. We highly recommend Ghost Train to the Eastern Star to both longtime fans and newcomers to Theroux's work.
“The trains contain the essential paraphernalia of the culture: Thai trains have the shower jar with the glazed dragon on its side, Ceylonese ones the car reserved for Buddhist monks, Indian ones a vegetarian kitchen and six classes, Iranian ones prayer mats, Malaysian ones a noodle stall, Vietnamese ones bulletproof glass on the locomotive, and on every carriage of a Russian train there is a samovar. The railway bazaar with its gadgets and passengers represented the society so completely that to board it was to be challenged by the national character.”
Interesting Facts & Links:
Theroux wrote much of the book while actually traveling on the trains he describes, often jotting notes in small notebooks during his journey. The author's original plan was to travel only as far as India, but he ultimately decided to extend his trip all the way to Japan. Theroux deliberately avoided doing much research before his trip, preferring to experience places with fresh eyes rather than preconceived notions.
The book's success inspired a whole genre of travel writing focused on railway journeys, influencing many subsequent authors.
The Great Railway Bazaar is one of the cornerstones in travel literature, and Paul Theroux is one of the writers who inspired this website. See our full list of some recommendations on the best of the best travel books and the best travel writers.
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