Travels with Charley in Search of America, by John Steinbeck
John Steinbeck, the man who brought us The Grapes of Wrath and Of Mice and Men, packs up a custom-built camper he lovingly dubs Rocinante (a nod to Don Quixote's trusty steed) and hits the open road. His faithful companion? A charming French poodle named Charley. This isn't just any road trip. It's a 10,000-mile journey to rediscover the heart and soul of America – and maybe a bit of himself along the way. In Travels with Charley, Steinbeck takes us along for the ride, and what a ride it is!
Starting from his home in Long Island, Steinbeck and Charley meander through New England's quaint towns, across the sweeping plains of the Midwest, and into the rugged beauty of Montana. They soak in the misty air of the Pacific Northwest before winding their way down to Steinbeck's childhood stomping grounds in Salinas, California.
But this book is so much more than a travelogue. It's a window into the mind of a literary giant and a snapshot of America at a turning point. Steinbeck has a knack for getting people to open up, and the conversations he recounts are pure gold. From small-town diners to roadside motels, he captures the hopes, fears, and opinions of everyday Americans grappling with a rapidly changing world.
The journey takes a somber turn as Steinbeck heads home through the Deep South. In New Orleans, he witnesses a gut-wrenching scene: grown women hurling vicious insults at six-year-old Ruby Bridges as she bravely walks into her newly desegregated school. It's a stark reminder of the long road ahead in the fight for civil rights.
Throughout it all, Steinbeck's writing shines. His descriptions paint vivid pictures in your mind, whether he's marveling at the vastness of the Montana sky or chuckling at Charley's latest antics. He's got a sharp eye for detail and an even sharper wit, but it's his deep compassion for his fellow humans that really sets this book apart. Travels with Charley isn't just a great read – it's a chance to hop in the passenger seat with one of America's most beloved authors as he rediscovers the country he thought he knew.
“When I was very young and the urge to be someplace else was on me, I was assured by mature people that maturity would cure this itch. When years described me as mature, the remedy prescribed was middle age. In middle age I was assured greater age would calm my fever and now that I am fifty-eight perhaps senility will do the job. Nothing has worked. Four hoarse blasts of a ship’s whistle still raise the hair on my neck and set my feet to tapping. The sound of a jet, an engine warming up, even the clopping of shod hooves on pavement brings on the ancient shudder, the dry mouth and vacant eye, the hot palms and the churn of stomach high up under the rib cage. In other words, once a bum always a bum. I fear this disease incurable.”
Interesting Facts & Links:
The titular Charley was Steinbeck's standard poodle, whose full name was actually Charles le Chien. Steinbeck chose a poodle as his traveling companion partly because the breed was considered "sissy" at the time, and he wanted to challenge that perception.
Steinbeck's custom-made camper truck, which he named Rocinante after Don Quixote's horse, still exists today. After changing hands several times, it was eventually acquired by the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas, California. The truck has been restored and is now on display, offering visitors a tangible connection to Steinbeck's famous journey.
The author undertook this journey despite being in poor health. He had suffered a stroke a few years earlier and was advised against the trip by his doctor. Steinbeck viewed the journey as potentially his last chance to see the country he loved, adding poignancy to his observations.
Some have claimed that Steinbeck made up some of the stories in the book. Check out Bill Steigerwald's Dogging Steinbeck: Discovering America and Exposing the Truth About Travels With Charley. Paul Theroux supported Steigerwald’s book; "Steinbeck falsified his trip. I am delighted that you went deep into this.”
Even with some doubt on the accuracy, Travels With Charley is still one of our favorites. Click here to see our list of the top recommendations from Travelreads for travel literature.
Those who enjoyed this book might want to check out our blog on the best books celebrating the magic of a road trip.
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